Skin Care

Clear, glowing, and healthy skin is almost every women’s desire. And the search for a perfect skin-care regime is never-ending. Needless to say about the truckload of products in the market, it takes a lot of trial and errors to find the product that actually works. If this is one thing, it is a huge challenge for cosmetic brands to come up with products that give faster and visible results, all thanks to self-professed beauty bloggers and their day-1 to perfectly edited day-2 pictures. While following a skin-care routine is a good thing to do, it is equally important to understand the basics of skin, the right order to use the products, and especially the ingredients used.

Epidermis

The Outer layer of skin that acts as a barrier between the body and the environment. The uppermost layer is made up of flat, dead skin cells forming the skin’s barrier while the bottom layer, is where the skin pigment is produced. The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) connects the dermis and epidermis and houses a network of blood vessels that pass nutrients from the dermis to the epidermis. The DEJ thins with age, making the skin more prone to sagging.

Dermis

The middle layer of the skin comprises nerves, glands, essential proteins, enzymes, and blood cells, making it the skin’s “operations” center. The dermis contains the essential proteins - collagen and elastin which provide support and structure to the skin. The elastin gives skin the ability to “bounce back” after stretching and the breakdown of elastin leads to sagging skin. Collagen, on the other hand, lends support to skin and gives it structure. It is one of the “building blocks” of the skin’s foundation. The breakdown of collagen leads to fine lines and wrinkles. Sun exposure is the number-one cause of collagen and elastin damage.

Hypodermis

Lies below the epidermis and dermis and comprises mainly of fat, blood vessels, and nerves. This layer acts as a cushion that also insulates the body. A network of blood vessels is found in the dermis and subcutaneous layer which supply the skin with oxygen and nutrients. They also play a role in regulating body temperature.

Sebaceous glands

Located at the root of the hair follicles, these glands produce oil or sebum which lubricates and waterproofs the skin and hair. It also forms a film on the skin that keeps water in and irritants out. Sebaceous glands are present everywhere except the palms and soles of the feet. To maintain healthy and youthful skin, a good skin-care regime that protects all its components is inevitable. Let us also understand the various products in an ideal skincare routine and the right order to apply it.

Regime

Step 1: Cleanser
The basic step in any skin-care routine is cleansing the skin, be it a simple 3-step regime or a 10-step routine. For any ingredients to properly absorb, it is imperative to start off with clean skin. Use a gentle cleanser depending on how your skin feels. If you have used make-up, ensure to use a cleansing oil before using a cleanser.

Step 2: Toner
Toners are light, alcohol-based liquids that help to balance the skin's pH levels; otherwise, the skin can become dry and dehydrated. It further aids to absorb the next products you apply. Look for a toner filled with either BHA (beta hydroxy acid, like salicylic acid) or AHA (alpha hydroxy acid, like glycolic acid or lactic acid), which work to unclog pores, prevent breakouts, and dissolve blackheads over time. If you’ve got dry skin, try water-soluble AHAs, and if you’ve got oily skin, stick with oil-soluble BHAs. After cleansing, tap them over clean, dry skin every other night, then wait until they dry—before applying anything else to avoid neutralize the acids. You can also swap skin essences for toner. The essence is a hybrid between a toner and a serum. It works perfectly to hydrate the complexion, aiding cellular turnover for a youthful appearance.

Step 3: Serum
Serums are essentially just shots of extremely concentrated nutrients, hydrators, and antioxidants that amp up your skin health as soon as you apply them. Try serums containing vitamin C which protects your skin from the inflammation and damage caused by free radicals during the day while also brightening skin and lightening dark spots over time. It’s also a little strong, so if you have sensitive skin, use it on alternative mornings instead of everyday. And at night, opt for hyaluronic acid infused serum, which helps hydrate the skin as you sleep.

Step 4: Eye cream
Eye creams are lighter and thinner than moisturizers and need to be gentle. Look for products containing caffeine or retinol that helps constrict and tighten puffy under-eyes. If you have chosen retinol-based creams, restrict its use only at bedtime. You can also tap on simple, hydrating eye cream for overnight application.

Step 5: Spot treatment
Whether you have zits, scars, or dark spots, apply your spot treatment ideally at night when the skin is repairing at its best. If you are using retinol or anti-aging creams, you can apply them in the morning instead. For dark spots and scars, pick products with either hydroquinone or niacinamide (aka vitamin B3), which gently brightens marks and scars over time. Niacinamide can be used daily but hydroquinone should be used every other day (or every three days) until you know how your skin responds to it. For acne, go for products containing benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. Benzoyl peroxide kills acne-causing bacteria while salicylic acid dissolves oil and skin cells. Dab a thin layer over your spot or zit, then wait at least a full minute for it to dry. Regardless of when you apply them, make sure to tap them on before your moisturizer so they can really penetrate your skin and do their thing without having another barrier to penetrate.

Step 6: Moisturizer
No matter how your skin feels, never skip out on moisturizers. It hydrates the skin and also helps trap in all the products underneath it to make the ingredients even more effective. Look for a light, gentle, hyaluronic-based moisturizer, which will keep skin hydrated without feeling heavy or greasy. And ideally, get a formula with a sunscreen of at least SPF 30 in it, especially if you’re not planning to slather on a separate sunscreen later. Whichever you choose, let it sink in for at least a full five minutes before applying makeup.

Step 7: Face oil
Face oils are not that moisturizing on their own but they help increase your routine’s efficacy while also leaving the skin soft and smooth. Just make sure to apply them last. And don’t think that oils are just for dry skin—certain oils, like rosehip and jojoba, can decrease excess oil in acne-prone skin, while marula and aloe oils can soothe sensitive, easily irritated skin.

Step 8: Sunscreen
While all the other products nourish the skin, sunscreen actually protects the skin. Apply it EVERY. SINGLE. DAY, what come rain or shine. Sunscreen should contain a minimum of SPF 30 and should be applied at least 15-20 minutes before sun exposure. Be generous and use a nickel-sized dollop for the face alone. And keep in mind, the SPF is just an estimate of how much time you can be in the sun before experiencing a burn so avoid direct sun exposure as much as possible and reapply every 2-3 hours or after getting wet. Tip: With any skin-care product, apply in order of consistency — from thinnest to thickest for maximum benefits. For example, cleanser, toner, serum, and then moisturizer. And remember, there is no such thing as an instant fix, so give it time and be consistent with your regime.