Ayurvedic Perspective: Skin and Hair

It is well-known that a structured skin and hair care routine is an inevitable part of any modern-day women but can you believe the use of cosmetics and the idea of beauty consciousness goes back to the very beginning of human existence. Cosmetics usage throughout history is representative of a civilization’s practical concerns, such as protection from the sun, social status, or conventions of beauty. The various ancient civilizations across the world used cosmetics regularly in religious rituals, to enhance beauty and to promote good health.

Dating back to 10,000 BCE, Egyptians have used scented oils to mask body odor and applied creams and oils to protect against sun and dry winds. Egyptian women also used galena mesdemet (made of copper and lead ore) and malachite (bright green paste of copper minerals) to their faces for color and definition (Think highlighters, shimmers, and bronzers of our times). Chinese women used various plant extracts to stain the nails as a representation of the social class. Greeks applied yogurt as a face mask to soothe the skin post-sun exposure along with honey and olive oil. Another such holistic system of medicine followed in India to date is Ayurveda which is based on a sound philosophical and experimental basis.

While modern cosmetic science deals with skin concerns as an abstract issue and focuses more on spot treatments, Ayurveda never isolates the involvement of mental and spiritual well-being from the concept of beauty. In fact, the use of Ayurvedic cosmeceuticals was not only directed towards developing an attractive external appearance but towards achieving longevity with good health. The ayurvedic scriptures like Atharvaveda, Charaka Samhita, and Sushruta Samhita discuss the use of over 700 herbs in detail and a large array of cosmetics used by both men and women in ancient India for aging and related issues. What is more interesting is that many of these practices depended on the season (Rutus) and were subtly interwoven with daily routine (Dinacharyā). Skincare procedures forming the daily routine described in Ayurvedic literature consist of numerous formulas involving herbs and other natural ingredients. The products were applied to the skin in the form of packs, oils, herbal waters, powders, etc. Applications of these as pastes have been classified into several kinds based on the temperature, duration, and thickness of application, effect of the application for healing, beautifying, anti-aging, etc.

According to Ayurveda, body constitution (Prakriti), structural predominance (Sara), compactness of body (sanhanan), skin completion (twak), measurement (Praman), and symptom of long life (dirghayu lakshyana) determines the beauty. Proper moisture balance (Kapha in balance), effective metabolism that coordinate various chemical and hormonal reactions of the skin (Pitta in balance), and efficient circulation of blood and nutrients to the different layers of the skin (Vata in balance) are vital to maintain the skin health and youthfulness.

Likewise, the health of the following three dhatus (types of body tissue) are especially reflected in the skin: nutritional fluid (Rasa), blood (Rakta), and muscle (Mamsa). Rasa supports all the body tissues, particularly the skin; Rakta along with the liver, helps to detoxify the skin; while Mamsa provides firmness to the skin. An effective Ayurvedic anti-aging product should nourish all three dhatus.

For Vata skin type, products that deeply hydrate and nourish the skin should be chosen for wrinkle-free, youthful skin. People with pitta skin type have delicate and sensitive skin, hence procedures that expose the skin to extended periods of heat, steam and direct sun should be avoided. Regular use of sunscreens is highly recommended. For kapha skin, a daily warm oil massage and cleansing with a gentle exfoliant is suggested.

Similarly, for vata hair type, proper nourishment to the hair follicles is suggested as this hair type tends to be thin, straight with high porosity. An imbalance in vata is believed to cause dry and frizzy hair, split ends, and hair loss. A healthy Pitta hair tends to be wavy with a medium thickness. Premature greying, clogged follicles with bacteria build-up, scalp inflammation, redness, hair loss, etc. are caused when Pitta is imbalanced. Kapha energy is responsible for hair structure and its lubrication. A healthy Kapha hair is thick, lustrous, and curly. Any imbalance in Kapha results in excessive sebum production, which eventually leads to oily dandruff with a greasy scalp, itching, hair fall, etc. Choosing the right products that balance the aggravated dosha is another important aspect of a hair care routine.

The various herbs used in ayurvedic products contain anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, deep healing, nourishing and moisturizing properties that promote skin and hair health. But the lack of quality control and standard guidelines limits the wide-spread use of traditional ayurvedic cosmetics. Procuring raw materials from authentic sources and processing them without compromising efficacy and safety poses another challenge in formulating ayurvedic products. In recent times, a number of cosmetic companies are using Ayurvedic knowledge for developing anti-aging cosmeceuticals. Backed by sound science and substantiated structure and function, ayurvedic products will have a big market in the anti-aging cosmeceutical sector. In addition, the rising interest among the consumers for herbal and natural cosmetics also brings the age-old ayurvedic wisdom back in place.